Saturday, March 13, 2010

Hike to Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado (Wed 3/10)

Stats:
- 15 miles
- 3600 feet of climbing

We said good-bye to the Canadians and Austrian this morning.  They were loaded up to ride south.  There is a good chance our paths with cross again in Calafate.  However, we continue to say big good-byes at each parting.  

Our plan for the day was to make great use of the weather --- completely clear skies and no wind!!  Today´s hike was to the only view point of everything...Fitz Roy, all the towers including Cerro Torre.  It is the "post card" photo and we had a blue bird day for it.  Unfortunately, I didn´t start with "blue bird" feet.  My left heal was taped for blister prevention.  Two toes have blisters that have expanded under the nails and created pressure.  

Now, I have to digress a bit.  There are two schools of thought --- 1) leave blisters alone and 2) pop them.  In the "field", I leave them alone.  Once home, I am a definite popper.  Well, I have popped these over and over and over.  I can´t seem to get them to dry out.  So, I have this stuff I consider "magic dust".  It is powder lubricant to prevent blisters.  Before heading out this morning, we both shook magic dust into our socks.  We will see how this works.

The hike was truly stunning.  The uphill grades were pretty continuous and only really steep at the end.  I rented a pair of Leki hiking poles for the day.  This might be the bargain of the century --- sweet telescoping poles with springs for $2.50 per day!  The poles were a huge help.  The trail followed a small creek, then traversed a large meadow, climbed through a beautiful lenga forest, crossed a gradual scree slope and then headed up the final steep pitch to the summit.  The views were mind popping --- the Full Monty.  We saw Fitz Roy, all the towers, Cerro Torre with it´s ice cream topper of a glacier.  Everything was wrapped in ice.  The glaciers flowed into the lakes.  The colors were awesome...dark rock, light grey rock, red rock, blue ice, white ice, white snow, blue lakes, teal lakes, and full blue skies.  Arn tried to take a photos that he can stitch into a full photo.  The challenge is that the scenery was a full 360 degrees of stunning.  We could even look back and see the town of El Chalten.  We decided there must be a conspiracy --- the locals are keeping this hike a secret.  We saw very few people and this was the best view spot.

At the top, we enjoyed our empanadas for lunch.  We also enjoyed what Arn refered to as, "The best thing I have eaten down here".  My best description is this --- dulce de leche pie with a chocolate layer on top.  It was awesome and something I will definitely recreate at home with a few minor "improvements".  Doesn´t Grand Marnier make everything better?  After lunch, it was time for "foot surgery".  The toes were trashed.  So, I cut blister bandages into small strips, taped them up, and slathered everything in a thick layer of Vasoline.  I also removed my sock liners and let my wool socks dry out.  I figured the "grease" would help with friction and less the liners would give my toes some more room.  I also popped more pain meds for my feet and we headed downhill.  

Yes, I take pain meds for my feet every time we go hiking for any distance.  It is a combination of Advil and Aleve.  Based on the day and the pain, the drugs get layered and timed and dosed to fit the bill.  Today´s strategy --- 3 Advil to start, 1 Aleve at the top, and 2 more Advil once the hike was over (so that I might walk to dinner without limping).  The Advil is better at reducing the bone pain.  After about 3 hours, the effects are gone.  The Aleve is a "patch" with a longer duration.  Now do you see why I prefer cycling?  My feet don´t hurt!  It takes several weeks of cycle touring before I need to tape my insoles and even then, there is no pain like today.  Oh well, it was a stunning hike and worth the effort and consequence.

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