Pucon to ? (Thursday, 1/28)

Stats:
- 35 miles
- 1900 ft of climbing
- 1 very flat rabbit (roadkill total)
- many friendly Pucon road cyclists
- many friendly road crew 

Our ride started with a dedicated bike right of way out of Pucon. As we left, many locals and visitors were out for their morning run. Others were on their way to work via bicycles.  Once outside of town, the road split. One way goes to a beautiful lake. The other way heads to hot springs, the border with Argentina and eventually to Junin de Los Andes.  This was our direction. 

After the split, the traffic was very sparse and drivers graciously gave us most of the lane. The views improved around each corner. We were treated to mountains, creeks, rivers, and lots of wild flowers. Eventually, we passed through the last town we expected to see for a while.  The kids in town were friendly, yelling "hello". I guess it is obvious that we are gringos and the kids have the chance to practice the English they are learning in school. 

Beyond town, we could ride side by side and occasionally move over for the lone car. With the river to our left and mountains all around, it was fantastic. But you know, sometimes things change and while you know change is coming; you hope, "maybe it could just change later". 

Ripio. In Spanish it means dirt road. As a cyclist, let me say all dirt roads are not created equal.  There is the "so hard packed with dirt that you might think it is paved" road. Nope, that was not this road. Then there is the "washer board" road that is like riding a corregated gravel road. Nope, that wasn't this road either. No, this is the "we are getting ready to pave it, so we have messed with it a lot" dirt road. So, in places it was like surfing grapefruit sized rocks.   In other places, it offered options to sink into lots of loose lemon sized rocks. And, in parts it was like riding on the beach in sand. "No problem" you say?  I thought that too when I first looked at it. However, with fully loaded bikes, it is a bit sketchy.  It gets a lot sketchy when it becomes a steep climb or descent.  The bikes started out feeling a bit squirrely. We have all the weight loaded on the back, so the front end does some strange dance. 

Then, a mirage appeared....asphalt!  Not chip and seal, but smooth, black, what every cyclist dreams about...beautiful asphalt!  And then we learned it was REAL!  Sweet!  Now, the road grew steeper and steeper.  Our plan was to stop for lunch in about two miles. Traveling about 3.5 mph in almost granny gears (for me) meant it was a while until lunch. 

The road grade leveled a bit and then it turned to --- come on, you know this word in Spanish --- ripio!!!  At this point, we saw what appeared to be a sign for a restaurant (really) and we saw many people working on the road. Arn inquired about the food and he pointed us down the road a short distance. 

The park ranger said we would find camping, cabanas, and a restaurant about 72km (45 miles) from Pucon.  At this point, we had covered 35 miles and it became very clear that this is the place the park ranger described. We enjoyed a hot lunch of lentil soup and home-made bread. We have rented a cabana for the night ($20). 

The setting here is unbelievably awesome!  We are along side the river with crystal clear water. Luckily, the flows are too low to paddle it or Arn would be beside himself. The mountains are incredible. We are facing a feature called "Las Peinetas".  They are jagged spires too steep for vegation. They are a beautiful display of the youthfulness of the Andes where time has yet to smooth and round the surfaces. 

We have explored a bit on foot and found a bridge over the river. It is a lovely setting enjoyed by a few families.   We will not have electricity until 4pm. The crews are here working on the road and electrical lines and towers. If they don't finish, no worries. We have head lamps. The crew have told us what lies ahead tomorrow.  "Ripio muy malo" --- very bad dirt road.  Combine this with what we know from the GPS and topo map (roughly 6 miles and a 2000ft climb to the pass), tomorrow morning is going to be a slog. Arn predicts two hours to the top. We both agree. It will be what it will be. 

Upon out arrival, we met two young kitties.  After strolling around a bit, we encountered a young woman feeding 11 kittens!  They are two different litters. The older group appears to be around 6 months. The younger group is between 6 and 8 weeks. After playing with them for a while, the trouble maker was very easy to identify. She was the smaller black kitten in the older group. I love playing with kittens and stirring up mischief in their antics. With 11 kittens, it is impossible to keep track of who is trying to untie your shoelaces versus who is about is assult your fingers.  

Tonight, dinner is at 9pm. Pasta is the menu (only two choices -- what the cook prepares or nothing).  I remember what my dad said thousands of times while I was growing up. "If your mother can cook it, then the least I can do is eat it".  Same rules apply here!  For a journey that is sure to include more surprises, finding ourselves here is a very sweet one.  Lastly, I find myself feeling very grateful tonight that Arn agreed to such an adventure. I am one lucky girl.