Puerto Chacabuco to Coyhaique (Wed2/24)

Stats:
- 49 miles (all paved)
- 2500 feet of climbing
- roadkill: 3 birds and 1 rabbit (I think one of the vultures was creamed while trying to eat a dead rabbit...different than this dead rabbit)
 
Arn and I enjoyed the best breakfast of the whole trip this morning!  We feasted on scrambled eggs, toast, fresh fruit, soft cookie sandwiches with dulce de leche, an apple-banana-cinnamon crumble torte, apricot juice, and real brewed coffee.  It was totally awesome.
 
We got off to a relatively early start --- 8:45am.  The skies were completely blue and the temps were crisp, but definitely not cold.  Today's ride was a bit of a backtrack to the Carretera Austral and then a turn to the south.  We pedaled 10 miles back to Puerto Asyen and stopped at the grocery store for fresh bread.  We have decided that being near or at the port means we are at the start of the "Carretera Austral Food Chain".  This explains our breakfast, two jars of peanut butter, and relatively better fruit.  This morning, it also explains a strange item that Arn claims jumped into his arms near the checkout stand --- a 6-pack of Snicker Bars.  Really, it is the small things in life than can mean so much!
 
So, with 10 miles down, roughly 40 to go, fresh bread for more PBJ sandwiches, and 6 Snicker Bars, we were off again.  The next 15 miles continued to come off quickly.  Over the first roughly 25 miles, we only gained a couple hunderd feet in elevation.  Around mile 20 we reached the Carretera and we turned southbound toward Coyhaique.  Our road followed the river...upstream.  We were in for a long gradual climb.  The valley was stunning.
 
Dark, rock walls lined the valley on either side.  The aqua green Rio Simpson ran down the center.  Rolling green meadows surrounded the river.  Given our early start, we did not have direct overhead light.  We were often riding in the shadows of the walls.  In the sun, our backs were warm.  In the shadows, it was cool and refreshing.  It felt like we were down in a gorge.
 
Traffic was heavier than most of the rest of the Carretera.  Coyhaique is the big town, so there was more activity --- buses, gas trucks, supply trucks from the port, people on the go.  For the most part, everyone was respectful. The city buses continue to be the worst.  It is best to just get off the road for them.
 
At one point, Arn said, "You know that your scenery has been good when you see what we see and you don´t even want to stop to take a photo!"  This was true.  After the 27 fastest miles since we joined the Carretera, we pulled off for a snack --- Snicker Bars!  As the girl who trained to race walk a marathon powered by Snickers, this is my kind of power source.  Arn has said many times, "If I have a choice between Cliff Bars and Snicker Bars, I am taking Snicker Bars".
 
While our weather has felt like summer for a while, today smelled like summer.  I can´t exactly figure it out, but there was just something in the air that smelled of summer.  The lupine is fading...something that happens by August at home (February is the equivalent here).  The daisies and clover are continuing to bloom.  The grasses are drying out.  I don´t know, but if I closed my eyes and breathed deep, there was no mistaking the season.
 
We knew that eventually, we would need to climb up out of the gorge and there was no confusion about the exit.  In the distance, the road was carved into the walls up and out of the gorge.  There was also a short tunnel.  At first we thought it was a "day light" tunnel with cut outs to allow the sunlight to permeate.  This was true --- right before the section where it was totally dark.  We turned on our lights (thanks to Susan for our flashing red and white lights).  Luckily, the total darkness was short and daylight returned before a vehicle caught us.  As we grinded (okay, I grinded and Arn hummed) up the climb, we could see the peaks beyond us.  Our valley was surrounded by what looked like the Canadian Rockies.  In the distance, it looked like the American Southwest.  At times, I thought I was seeing the walls of the Grand Canyon, only in shades of black and brown, not red.  Once out of the river valley, we continued to climb.  We passed our only cyclist of the day.  He was enjoying a screaming downhill and never stopped.  Go figure.
 
Eventually, we topped the climb and caught our first glimps of Coyhaique in the distance.  About 60,000 people live in Coyhaique.  It is the largest town we have seen since we left Bariloche over three weeks ago.  Our arrival was a long downhill along the river.  However, you are going to love this --- the river was flowing downstream (counter to us) and yet, we were descending.  You know what this means.  Yes, we headed back uphill into town.
 
Our first choice place (that Arn emailed two days ago and they never replied) was full.  So, we are staying at the place where Dominiq & Michelle (women from UK) stayed.  After checking in and taking showers, we both noticed what Dominiq had warned us about and we had forgotten.  There is NO window in the room.  So, it is a double room (two twin beds) with a private bath, but no window.  It is not a place to hang out and it is place with 10,000 low hanging objects on which Arn can earn himself a concussion --- television, door jams, light fixures, etc.
 
Given that Coyhaique has more services than any place we have been in a while, we arrived with a list of "must do´s".  Since arriving, we have had our laundry done (it was getting really disgusting).  We have, in Arn´s words, "porked the ATM twice".  We´ve been to the pharmacy for sunscreen, toothpaste, and sports tape (I am taping the insteps of my feet for additional support).  We have been to the gas station to consider maps for sorting out options after the Carretera, to the tourist office to find any interesting ideas, and to the grocery store for apples (me) and potato chips (Arn).  And now, we are chilling...waiting for the appropriate dinner hour.
 
Tomorrow, I have been told will be a "suffer-fest" followed by a "fiesta of suffering".  Today´s ride burned 2300 calories.  We will see about tomorrow´s ride.  A few days ago, I hit a new low on the "pre-ride standing heart rate".  It was 43 bpm.  Arn explained, "You are getting more fit and not burning as many calories".  This is true.  My limiting factor is leg strength on a fully loaded bike --- the heart rate has not been tapped out.  Tomorrow, will be a leg burner for sure.  Our forecast continues to look good --- the low tomorrow is 50 with a high of 80!  Tonight will be the warmest walk to dinner since we left Pucon in late January!